The skincare treatments that work today focus on hyaluronic acid serum. Thus, in recent months, new versions have multiplied (you would want to try them all) which promise instantly brighter skin, with instant softening and smoothing effects. Also known as HA, this substance owes its popularity to its precise peculiarity, which has no equal: it can contain up to 1,000 times its weight in water and, at the skin level, carries out an unparalleled hydroscopic activity which gives the complexion a full and soft appearance. The intensive hydration guaranteed by hyaluronic acid can be considered a super-power, capable of plumping the epidermis at the first pass, making it appear tighter, smoother and more radiant. In short, younger. It doesn't move the hand of time back, it's true, but it undoubtedly improves the appearance of the face.
Why hyaluronic acid serum is so popular
Although hyaluronic acid is used as a skin care ingredient in all cosmetic forms (cream, emulsion or fluid), serum formulas are now particularly popular. The reason for such success is to be found precisely in the particular texture, which has an edge over the others.
The hyaluronic acid serum has a aqueous chemical composition and is free of oils, characteristic that makes it versatile, i.e. suitable for multiple biotypes because it does not interfere with the sebum present on the surface of the skin", he explains Pucci Romano, specialist in dermatology, president of Skineco (International Association of EcoDermatology), scientific board Il Corpo Ritrovato - Research and studies for the dermo-cosmetological care of cancer patients.
Depending on the condition of the epidermis, it is then suitable for: a dual use. «In the case of young skin it could be used as a single step essential part of the beauty routine, while if the skin is mature it is advisable to combine it with a cream to be absorbed immediately after application because, especially in winter, this type of complexion requires greater hydration".
What is the ingredient of the moment and what is it for?
Hyaluronic acid is made up of sugars called polysaccharides, and when inserted into cosmetic treatments it can have different dimensions . «When you read the wording “high molecular weight hyaluronic acid” , means that the molecule stays on the surface and hinders the evaporation of the skin's water components. Therefore it "fixes" hydration", underlines the expert.
«When the wording specifies “ low molecular weight”, instead, hyaluronic acid manages to reach in depth where the connective tissue is located", underlines dermatologist Pucci Romano. Here, thanks to its particular viscous, plastic and extremely polar structure which allows it to attract water to itself, it integrates perfectly with the extracellular matrix. Blending with collagen and elastin shape like this a dense flexible network, which constitutes a sort of scaffolding that allows the skin to preserve hydration, tone and elasticity.
«The effectiveness of hyaluronic acid is certainly nothing new, e.g its ability to enter into harmony with the skin organ is amply demonstrated. Compared to the molecules used in the past, those now included in cosmetics they are absolutely safe", specifies the specialist.
«If initially hyaluronic acid it was obtained from cockscombs, today it is obtained in the laboratory thanks to green chemistry with the mediation of some bacteria, ed it is in all respects an eco-dermo-compatible functional agent".
Is hyaluronic acid better alone or in company?
Hyaluronic acid serums today are offered with different formulations, which see this ingredient as the sole protagonist or combined with other active ingredients. «The performance does not change, and hyaluronic acid always maintains its activity which, in the case of combination with other substances, can be enhanced by a further action. When it is associated with rose hips or resveratrol, for example, it also combines the hydrating action with the antioxidant action. If it is combined with niacinamide (or vitamin B3), however, it becomes a precious sebum-regulating treatment, while with peptides it gives a toning boost to collagen fibres", concludes Pucci Romano.
