Ode to vitamin C, a superstar ingredient in beauty, so beloved (even by dermatologists) that it even has its own day. In fact, April 4 is celebrated as Vitamin C Day. It offers many benefits to the skin, first and foremost brightness. But we have discovered that, in specific cases, there may also be contraindications to its use.
Vitamin C: how much do we love it us beauty addicted? And not only that: dermatologists and brands of beauty promote its benefits and its popularity extends to various types of cosmetics, including serums, which are highly sought after by consumers of all ages.
Vitamin C, the benefits
Since it also has a day dedicated to it, april 4th (Vitamin C was born in 2019 in the United States on the initiative of the SkinCeuticals brand to celebrate its benefits), we want to make this beauty superstar even more prominent. Often defined as the Holy Grail of skincare, it is one of the most recommended active ingredients by dermatologists, especially during spring. One of the main reasons that makes vitamin C perfect for this season is its antidote action to the climatic changes typical of the period.
Rich in antioxidants, pure vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, removes free radicals while strengthening and brightening the skin, a particularly useful action during seasonal changes. It has anti-stain, moisturizing and firming powers and depending on the assets to which it binds, it is used for the face and for the body, in creams, serums and concentrated boosters with different functions. How can you not love it immensely?
«The properties of vitamin C in the cosmetic field are now well known. The most important action of this ingredient is its antioxidant action, which prevents oxidative stress. Vitamin C also prevents the appearance of dark spots and has a lightening action, at a superficial level, on those already existing. To explain it, its concentration in the formula must be at least 10%. In addition to illuminating the complexion, it plays a role in the stimulation of fibroblasts and, therefore, in the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Pure vitamin C is highly unstable, and is therefore subject to rapid oxidation. It can also be used during the hot season because it is not photosensitizing», explains Andrea Cotugno, pharmacist.
«It is photosensitive: if not stored in special containers (dark glass is ideal) it tends to deteriorate when in contact with light sources. It should also be kept away from heat sources. In cosmetic formulations, vitamin C is present in concentrations that usually range from 5% to 20%. The ones I personally prefer are those with pure vitamin C encapsulated inside plant-based liposomes», the expert emphasizes.
Vitamin C, contraindications
Depending on your skin type, it is better to start using vitamin C gradually to ensure that your skin doesn’t react negatively. Once you’ve decided that vitamin C works for you, adding it to your daily routine is the best way to see noticeable results and prevent skin problems like sun damage and fine lines.
«In 90% of cases, any rare problems with vitamin C are found when we are in the presence of L-ascorbic acid», specifies Anna Lisa Gramellini, biologist and cosmetologist. «However, in high concentrations (over 10%) or combined with other exfoliating active ingredients, it can cause redness, tingling or dryness, especially on sensitive skin. In some rare cases, reactions such as hives or more marked irritation have been observed. Furthermore, the oxidation of vitamin C can cause slight skin discoloration or stain tissues and light hair. It is best to apply it with caution in the eye contour area and always accompanied by a good hydrating formula free from exfoliating or acidifying agents».
In fact, when introducing vitamin C into your skincare, you must be careful with other cosmetic products you use before and after: for example, when combined with retinol it can lose its effectiveness or irritate the skin, while when combined with AHA and BHA acids with an exfoliating action it risks creating excessive sensitivity and facilitating the appearance of solar blemishes.
Vitamin C, seasonal treatments to treat yourself to
Meanwhile, in addition to cosmetics that contain vitamin C, to give a glow boost to the skin, in this season, the best is to treat yourself to a treatment based on this beloved active ingredient. The Cavalieri Grand Spa Club of the Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel, the most luxurious and fascinating wellness and fitness centre in Italy, offers two treatments to face the summer months in style, choose the face version, with The Citrus Essence and, or the body version with the Citrus Drench, both from the Spanish brand Natura Bissé. The first revitalizes, stimulates and firms the skin. Highly soothing, this ritual is ideal for after-sun and can calm redness and inflammation. Thanks to the use of products based on encapsulated Vitamin C, which renews the skin's firmness with the production of collagen and is excellent for obtaining an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effect, you can expose yourself to the sun immediately after use.
The treatment Citrus Essence is also highly relaxing, as it involves a massage while applying the mask with the Vitamin C concentrate, which is activated through acupressure maneuvers applied area by area until completely penetrated. Even the Citrus Drench uses the principles of vitamin C, to protect the skin from dehydration and premature aging, making it intensely hydrated and luminous.
While in Capri you can find a corner of beauty and wellness, the Narducci Wellness Area, nestled between the rocks of the iconic Punta Tragara Capri Small Luxury Hotel, offers the treatment Fragrances of Capri, where the intense citrus scent envelops face, body and mind.
Gives immediate radiance, reducing the signs of aging including fine lines and deeper wrinkles, loss of tone and elasticity and dyschromia due to hyper-pigmentation. A mix of biotechnological active ingredients and plant active ingredients also promotes collagen synthesis, improving cell turnover for younger-looking skin, visibly regenerated and radiant thanks also to the use of vitamin C.
