THE FUNCTIONAL SUBSTANCES OF ANTI-AGE COSMETICS MECHANISM OF ACTION AND UTILITY
INCREASE THE PENETRATION OF FUNCTIONAL SUBSTANCES
To enhance the cosmetic effectiveness of functional substances it is useful to promote the penetration of functional ingredients through the superficial skin layers, this can be achieved
- Reducing the protective barrier with smoothing and exfoliating treatments (OH MERVEILLE GOMMAGE)
- creating skin occlusiveness; (MISS J MASK – SB PROBIOTICS MASK)
- decreasing the molecular size; (MISS J HYALURONIC ACID LINE 5 M.W.)
- making the molecules lipophilic. (all our cosmetics)
- Reducing the protective barrier with smoothing and exfoliating treatments
AHAs and BHAs weaken the superficial skin barrier. As a direct consequence, there is an increase in the penetration of functional substances through the skin and therefore greater effectiveness is achieved. However, this ease of transcutaneous passage also concerns potentially harmful substances, with an unsafe toxicological and allergological profile. Cases of allergies or intolerances due to the secondary effect of AHAs may therefore increase. A substance that is absolutely harmless under normal skin conditions, for example a perfume or a preservative, can thus cause redness or the appearance of irritation when the skin is less protected on the surface.
Therefore, be careful when using exfoliating and smoothing substances and all those that weaken the skin barrier.
WARNING Among the substances capable of weakening the skin barrier there are also surfactants, in particular the more aggressive and degreasing ones. For example, room cleaning products are formulated with surfactants which, in addition to completely eliminating the hydrolipidic film, interact with the proteins of the skin cell membranes. Those who use them daily, without adequate protection, experience frequent redness, flaking, as well as real allergies, probably as a secondary effect of increased exposure and penetration of other substances placed in contact with the skin.
- Creating skin occlusiveness;
An occlusive compress using xanthan gum, vegetable oils, or with plastic material such as cellophane, increases the penetration of the active substances as it reduces the loss of water through evaporation and also heat. The resulting increase in local skin temperature promotes vasodilation of the capillaries, makes the hydrolipidic film more fluid and increases the solubility of functional substances, facilitating their passage. It is a system used in Galenic medicine since ancient times... before a cosmetic treatment it is possible to heat the face with steam...
- decreasing the molecular size
The smaller the molecules, the more penetrating they are. However, if the molecule is hydrophilic, it does not easily overcome the skin barrier, because it does not mix with the hydrolipidic film and cannot even cross the duct of the sebaceous gland. Another technique to improve the skin passage of functional molecules, including the most hydrophilic ones, consists in incorporating them into nanoparticles of fatty substances similar to epidermal lipids, with which they have great affinity, called nanosomes (Lubnes, 2008, Morganti, 2003a).
STIMULATE CELLULAR METABOLISM
We have underlined how aging involves a general slowdown of cellular metabolism in all tissues. Therefore, applying stimulating substances topically gives a boost of energy and gives a positive impulse to the cells to renew themselves.
What are the cosmetic substances that stimulate cellular metabolism?
Cosmetic substances capable of stimulating cellular metabolism include:
- some plant extracts; (CONTAINED IN THE BABA JAGA LINE)
- some essential oils; (CONTAINED IN THE BABA JAGA LINE)
- trace elements and essential amino acids. (CONTAINED IN THE VASSILISSA LINE)
Trace elements are minerals present in trace amounts in tissues. They are absolutely indispensable for making the enzymatic systems work and thus making all chemical reactions possible, in particular those of the synthesis of skin proteins.
- Copper (INCI: CUPRUM) is essential for the synthesis of collagen and melanin.
- Zinc (INCI: ZINC) plays a fundamental role in epidermal turnover and is essential for the synthesis of keratin.
Promotes the functionality of the immune system.
- Manganese (INCI: MANGANESE) is important in antioxidant systems that help eliminate extremely harmful free radicals.
- Magnesium (INCI: MAGNESIUM) participates in the main intracellular metabolisms and is a powerful enzyme activator.
- Essential amino acids increase cellular activity, as well as participating in the metabolism of DNA and RNA.
- Probiotics are also used in cosmetics (SB PROBIOTICS LINE).
REDUCE OXIDATION
The physiological antioxidants present in skin tissues are of an enzymatic nature (superoxide-dismutase, glutathione-peroxidase and catalase) or non-enzymatic (vitamins C and E carotenoids, coenzyme Q10, lipoic acid).
During daily metabolic processes, dangerous molecules with very strong chemical reactivity are formed: free radicals. They are able to react with all substances close to them causing serious damage, for example to cell membranes (Schmid et al., 2007; Morganti et al., 2001; Giacomoni et al., 2004).
Our body is able to defend itself from free radicals thanks to antioxidants, capable of inactivating their danger.
However, there are some situations in which, unfortunately, the metabolic oxidative state increases. In these cases, the physiological reserves of antioxidants are consumed quickly and it is therefore useful to implement them internally with food supplements and topically with specific cosmetic products.
In which cases does the oxidative state of the organism increase?
Psycho-physical stress, exposure to sun rays, illnesses, taking drugs, an unregulated lifestyle, an incorrect diet, excess environmental pollution, smoking are all factors capable of increasing oxidative stress in the body. organ.
Regarding skin aging, what is the consequence of increased oxidation?
In general, oxidative reactions accelerate and aggravate the aging process.
People who expose their skin to tanning beds year-round and those who smoke more than 20 cigarettes a day, for example, present strong evidence of accelerated aging caused by cellular oxidative stress in the skin. Compared to their peers who do not expose their skin to UV rays and who do not smoke, in fact, they appear several years older.
What are the antioxidant substances of greatest cosmetic interest?
The antioxidant substances most used in cosmetics are vitamins C and E, flavonoids, resveratrol (INCI: RESVERATROL) from red grapes (INCI: VITIS VINIFERA EXTRACT), pycnogenol (INCI: PYCNOGENOL), coenzyme Q10 (INCI: UBI-QUINONE), lipoic acid (INCI: THIOCTICACID), green tea
(INCI: CAMELIA SINENSIS EXTRACT), ginkgo (INCI: GINKGO BILOBA EXTRACT), rosemary (INCI: ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS EXTRACT), aloe (INCI: AIOE BARBADENSIS EXTRACT), prickly pear (INCI: OPUNTIA FICUS INDICA EXTRACI), echinacea (INCI: ECHINACEA ANGUSTIFOLA)
CONTAINED IN THE VITAMIN GEL AND IN ALL THE OTHER PRODUCTS OF THE FACE LINES
Who are antioxidant cosmetics recommended for?
In general to everyone. Specifically, to those who find themselves in conditions of increased oxidation, especially in cases of psychophysical stress, smoking or following sun exposure. Cosmetic products, in these situations, can constitute a fundamental support for the skin in preventing the premature appearance of the signs of aging.
Some antioxidant mix is always present in anti-aging cosmetics and in recent years also in after-sun ones.
